리퀴드 잘못 바르면 바로 cpu나 보드를 태워먹는 다는 무시무시한 소문을 들어서요.
뚜따를 리퀴드 말고 다른 서멀로 하면 어찌될까 하는 의문이 들었네요.
I use a room fan to ensure minimal localized heating is occuring in the vicinity of the mobo itself, and I place remote temperature sensor directly in front of the H100 radiator intake so I know how cool the radiator is running.
The remote temperature sensor is displayed by the Temperature monitor, which I setup in a bank of external sensors that included my kill-a-watt, voltmeter, and sound meter.
The bank of external sensors is then positioned to be captured by a webcam in real-time fashion.
좀 된거긴 한데 양덕의 포스가 느껴지는 스레드.
방식은 뚜껑없이 바로 실리콘에 H100를 얹는 방식이고요.
cpu는 3770k
Time to put the setup to the test, add a little NT-H1 to the bare silicon die:
And bolt down the H100 accordingly, tightening the thumb-nuts to full-stop, same as I would do if the IHS was still present:
And bolt down the H100 accordingly, tightening the thumb-nuts to full-stop, same as I would do if the IHS was still present:
테스트 환경 입니다.
I use a room fan to ensure minimal localized heating is occuring in the vicinity of the mobo itself, and I place remote temperature sensor directly in front of the H100 radiator intake so I know how cool the radiator is running.
The remote temperature sensor is displayed by the Temperature monitor, which I setup in a bank of external sensors that included my kill-a-watt, voltmeter, and sound meter.
The bank of external sensors is then positioned to be captured by a webcam in real-time fashion.
결론은
리퀴드가 짱을 먹는데 녹투아도 온도가 좋네요.
세라믹이 삼등.
다이아몬드가 4등인데 실리콘이 긁혀서 ㅎㄷㄷㄷ
mx 4는 성적이 별로 안 좋네요.
링크 들어가서 보시면 각각의 서멀 별로 쿨러 얹기 전, 후 사진이랑 온도를 볼 수 있고요.
글쓴이가 정전기로 cpu 죽인건 함정.ㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋㅋ
덕질하면서 처음한 실수가 가장 기초적인 실수라면서 자기도 어이없어 하네요.
이 기회에 esd 팔찌를 하나 구입하는 것도 나쁘지 않을 듯..
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